How To Replace Rear Brakes On?

Okay, here's a comprehensive article on replacing rear brakes, designed to be informative, helpful, and HCU-algorithm compatible.

Introduction:

Replacing your rear brakes is a common maintenance task that can save you significant money compared to taking your vehicle to a mechanic. While it might seem daunting at first, with the right tools, a bit of patience, and this guide, you can confidently perform this service yourself. This guide provides a step-by-step approach, covering everything from preparation to completion, ensuring a safe and successful brake replacement.

Table of Contents

Topic	Description	Key Information
1. Assessing Brake Condition	Determining if brake replacement is necessary based on visual inspection and performance.	Signs of worn brakes: Squealing, grinding, or pulsating brakes; longer stopping distances; brake pedal feels spongy; visual inspection of brake pad thickness (less than 3mm/0.12 inches).
2. Gathering Tools & Parts	Assembling the necessary tools and purchasing the correct replacement brake pads and rotors/drums.	Essential Tools: Jack and jack stands; Wheel chocks; Lug wrench; Socket set (metric or SAE depending on vehicle); Wrench set; Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips); Brake cleaner; Brake grease/lubricant; C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool; Gloves; Safety glasses; Torque wrench; Optional: Rubber mallet; Wire brush; Brake spring tool (for drum brakes). Required Parts: New brake pads; New rotors or drums (if needed); New hardware (clips, shims, etc.).
3. Safety Precautions	Emphasizing the importance of safety during the brake replacement process.	Key Safety Points: Work on a level surface; Use jack stands to support the vehicle; Wear safety glasses and gloves; Disconnect the negative battery terminal (optional, but recommended); Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack; Be mindful of brake fluid, as it can damage paint.
4. Preparation	Preparing the vehicle for brake replacement: loosening lug nuts, jacking up the vehicle, and removing the wheel.	Steps: Loosen lug nuts; Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels on the opposite side of the vehicle; Jack up the vehicle; Securely place jack stands under the frame; Remove the wheel.
5. Caliper/Drum Removal	Removing the brake caliper (for disc brakes) or drum (for drum brakes).	Disc Brakes: Locate and remove the caliper bolts; Carefully slide the caliper off the rotor; Support the caliper with a wire or bungee cord to avoid straining the brake hose. Drum Brakes: Remove the brake drum – may require tapping with a rubber mallet or adjusting the brake shoes.
6. Pad/Shoe Replacement	Replacing the old brake pads (disc brakes) or brake shoes (drum brakes) with new ones.	Disc Brakes: Remove old brake pads from the caliper; Clean the caliper bracket; Install new brake pads, ensuring they are properly seated; Compress the caliper piston using a C-clamp or caliper compression tool; Install new hardware (clips, shims). Drum Brakes: Disconnect and remove old brake shoes; Clean the backing plate; Apply brake grease to contact points; Install new brake shoes and hardware.
7. Rotor/Drum Servicing	Inspecting and servicing the rotor (disc brakes) or drum (drum brakes).	Disc Brakes: Inspect the rotor for wear, cracks, or warping; Resurface or replace the rotor if necessary; Clean the rotor with brake cleaner. Drum Brakes: Inspect the drum for wear, cracks, or scoring; Resurface or replace the drum if necessary; Clean the drum with brake cleaner.
8. Reassembly	Reassembling the brake system: reinstalling the caliper/drum, wheel, and lowering the vehicle.	Steps: Reinstall the caliper (disc brakes) or drum (drum brakes); Tighten caliper bolts/drum securing hardware to the manufacturer's specified torque; Reinstall the wheel; Lower the vehicle; Tighten lug nuts to the manufacturer's specified torque.
9. Final Checks & Bedding	Performing final checks and bedding in the new brakes.	Final Checks: Pump the brake pedal several times to restore brake pressure; Check the brake fluid level and top off if necessary; Inspect for leaks. Bedding In: Perform a series of controlled stops from moderate speeds to properly seat the new brake pads/shoes to the rotors/drums.
10. Troubleshooting	Addressing common issues encountered during brake replacement.	Common Issues: Stuck caliper piston; Difficult drum removal; Brake squealing after replacement; Soft brake pedal. Troubleshooting will be explained in detail below.

1. Assessing Brake Condition

Determining when to replace your rear brakes is crucial for safety. Listen for squealing, grinding, or pulsating noises when braking. Longer stopping distances or a spongy brake pedal are also indicators of worn brakes. Visually inspect the brake pads. If the friction material is less than 3mm (0.12 inches) thick, it's time for a replacement. For drum brakes, check for excessive wear or scoring on the drum surface.

2. Gathering Tools & Parts

Having the right tools and parts is essential for a smooth brake replacement.

Essential Tools:

Jack and jack stands: To safely lift and support the vehicle.
Wheel chocks: To prevent the vehicle from rolling.
Lug wrench: To loosen and tighten lug nuts.
Socket set (metric or SAE depending on vehicle): For removing caliper bolts and other hardware.
Wrench set: For holding bolts while loosening nuts.
Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips): For various tasks, including removing retaining clips.
Brake cleaner: To clean brake components.
Brake grease/lubricant: To lubricate moving parts and prevent squealing. Specifically, use a synthetic brake grease designed for brake components.
C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool: To compress the caliper piston.
Gloves: To protect your hands.
Safety glasses: To protect your eyes from debris.
Torque wrench: To tighten bolts to the manufacturer's specifications.
Optional: Rubber mallet, Wire brush, Brake spring tool (for drum brakes).

Required Parts:

New brake pads: Purchase the correct pads for your vehicle's make and model.
New rotors or drums (if needed): Inspect the rotors/drums for wear and replace if necessary. It's often recommended to replace rotors/drums when replacing pads/shoes.
New hardware (clips, shims, etc.): These often come with the new brake pads and are essential for proper installation and noise reduction.

3. Safety Precautions

Safety is paramount when working on your vehicle's brakes.

Work on a level surface: Ensure the vehicle is parked on a flat, stable surface.
Use jack stands to support the vehicle: Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
Wear safety glasses and gloves: Protect your eyes and hands from debris and chemicals.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal (optional, but recommended): Prevents accidental electrical issues.
Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack: This is a critical safety rule.
Be mindful of brake fluid, as it can damage paint: Wipe up any spills immediately.

4. Preparation

Proper preparation makes the job easier and safer.

Loosen lug nuts: Before lifting the vehicle, loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you'll be working on.
Place wheel chocks: Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels on the opposite side of the vehicle to prevent it from rolling.
Jack up the vehicle: Use a jack to lift the vehicle at the designated jacking points. Consult your owner's manual for the correct locations.
Securely place jack stands: Place jack stands under the vehicle's frame near the jacking points. Make sure the jack stands are properly positioned and locked.
Remove the wheel: Completely remove the lug nuts and carefully remove the wheel.

5. Caliper/Drum Removal

The process for removing the caliper (disc brakes) or drum (drum brakes) differs significantly.

Disc Brakes:

Locate and remove the caliper bolts: These bolts typically hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. Use the appropriate socket or wrench to remove them.
Carefully slide the caliper off the rotor: You may need to gently wiggle the caliper to loosen it.
Support the caliper with a wire or bungee cord: Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose, as this can damage it. Secure it to the suspension.

Drum Brakes:

Remove the brake drum: This can sometimes be difficult. First, make sure the parking brake is disengaged. If the drum is stuck, try tapping it with a rubber mallet around the edges. There may also be an access hole on the backing plate that allows you to adjust the star wheel adjuster, retracting the brake shoes.

6. Pad/Shoe Replacement

Replacing the brake pads or shoes is the core of the process.

Disc Brakes:

Remove old brake pads from the caliper: They may be held in place by clips or retaining hardware.
Clean the caliper bracket: Use a wire brush to remove any rust or debris from the caliper bracket.
Install new brake pads, ensuring they are properly seated: Make sure the pads are correctly oriented and securely clipped or seated in the bracket.
Compress the caliper piston: Use a C-clamp or caliper compression tool to push the piston back into the caliper. This is necessary to create enough space for the new, thicker brake pads. Be careful not to damage the piston. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap before compressing the piston.
Install new hardware (clips, shims): Use the new hardware that came with the brake pads. This helps ensure proper pad movement and reduces noise.

Drum Brakes:

Disconnect and remove old brake shoes: Note the position of all springs and hardware before disassembly. Take a picture if necessary.
Clean the backing plate: Clean the backing plate with a wire brush.
Apply brake grease to contact points: Apply a small amount of brake grease to the contact points on the backing plate where the brake shoes slide.
Install new brake shoes and hardware: Carefully reassemble the brake shoes, springs, and hardware in the correct positions. Use a brake spring tool if necessary.

7. Rotor/Drum Servicing

Inspecting and servicing the rotors or drums ensures optimal braking performance.

Disc Brakes:

Inspect the rotor for wear, cracks, or warping: Look for deep grooves, cracks, or excessive rust. Use a rotor thickness gauge to measure the rotor thickness and compare it to the manufacturer's minimum specification.
Resurface or replace the rotor if necessary: If the rotor is worn or damaged, it should be resurfaced by a professional or replaced.
Clean the rotor with brake cleaner: Remove any oil or grease from the rotor surface.

Drum Brakes:

Inspect the drum for wear, cracks, or scoring: Look for deep grooves, cracks, or excessive rust. Measure the inside diameter of the drum and compare it to the manufacturer's maximum specification.
Resurface or replace the drum if necessary: If the drum is worn or damaged, it should be resurfaced by a professional or replaced.
Clean the drum with brake cleaner: Remove any oil or grease from the drum surface.

8. Reassembly

Reassembling the brake system is the reverse of the disassembly process.

Reinstall the caliper (disc brakes) or drum (drum brakes): Ensure the caliper or drum is properly aligned and seated.
Tighten caliper bolts/drum securing hardware to the manufacturer's specified torque: Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the correct torque specification. This is crucial for safety and proper brake function. Consult your vehicle's repair manual for torque specifications.
Reinstall the wheel: Carefully align the wheel and reinstall the lug nuts.
Lower the vehicle: Use the jack to lower the vehicle back to the ground.
Tighten lug nuts to the manufacturer's specified torque: Use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to the correct torque specification.

9. Final Checks & Bedding

Performing final checks and bedding in the new brakes ensures proper function and longevity.

Pump the brake pedal several times to restore brake pressure: This will push the caliper piston back against the brake pads.
Check the brake fluid level and top off if necessary: Make sure the brake fluid level is at the "MAX" line on the reservoir. Use the correct type of brake fluid as specified in your owner's manual.
Inspect for leaks: Check around the calipers and brake lines for any signs of brake fluid leaks.
Bedding In: Perform a series of controlled stops from moderate speeds (e.g., 40 mph) to low speeds (e.g., 10 mph) to properly seat the new brake pads/shoes to the rotors/drums. Avoid hard braking during the initial bedding-in period. Consult the brake pad manufacturer's instructions for specific bedding-in procedures.

10. Troubleshooting

Here are some common issues you might encounter:

Stuck caliper piston: If the caliper piston is difficult to compress, it may be corroded. Try using a specialized caliper piston tool. If it's severely stuck, you may need to replace the caliper.
Difficult drum removal: If the drum is stuck, try adjusting the star wheel adjuster through the access hole on the backing plate to retract the brake shoes. You can also try using penetrating oil and tapping the drum with a rubber mallet.
Brake squealing after replacement: This can be caused by several factors, including improper installation, low-quality brake pads, or contamination of the brake pads or rotors/drums. Ensure all hardware is correctly installed and use a quality brake cleaner.
Soft brake pedal: This can be caused by air in the brake lines. Bleed the brake lines to remove the air. You may need to bleed all four brakes.

Detailed Troubleshooting Expansion:

Let's expand on these troubleshooting points to provide more actionable advice:

Stuck Caliper Piston (Detailed): A stuck caliper piston often results from corrosion or debris buildup inside the caliper. Before attempting to compress the piston, thoroughly clean the exposed area around the piston with brake cleaner and a wire brush. If a standard C-clamp doesn't work, consider a specialized caliper piston compression tool that applies even pressure. Important: If the piston is significantly corroded or damaged, attempting to force it back can damage the caliper. In such cases, replacing the entire caliper assembly is the safest and most reliable solution. Also, inspect the rubber boot around the piston for tears or damage, as this allows moisture and contaminants to enter and cause corrosion.
Difficult Drum Removal (Detailed): Besides the star wheel adjuster and rubber mallet techniques, applying heat can sometimes help. Use a propane torch (carefully!) to gently heat the center of the drum, which can help expand it slightly and break the rust bond. Safety Note: Avoid overheating the drum, and never use a flame near brake fluid lines. Another trick is to spray penetrating oil around the center hub where the drum contacts the axle. Let it soak for a while before attempting to remove the drum again. If the drum is still stubbornly stuck, consider using a slide hammer with a drum puller attachment. This tool applies controlled pulling force to remove the drum.
Brake Squealing After Replacement (Detailed): If squealing persists after ensuring proper installation and cleaning, consider the quality of the brake pads. Low-quality pads often contain harder materials that can cause noise. Upgrading to a higher-quality pad with noise-dampening shims can often resolve the issue. Also, ensure that the brake pads are properly lubricated at the contact points with the caliper bracket. Use a high-temperature brake grease specifically designed for this purpose. Sometimes, even new rotors can have slight imperfections that cause squealing. A light resurfacing of the rotors can help.
Soft Brake Pedal (Detailed): A soft or spongy brake pedal almost always indicates air in the brake lines. Bleeding the brakes is essential to remove this air. Start with the brake caliper furthest from the master cylinder (usually the passenger-side rear) and work your way closer. Use a brake bleeder kit or have a helper pump the brake pedal while you open and close the bleeder valve. Important: Keep a close eye on the brake fluid level in the master cylinder during the bleeding process and top it off as needed to prevent air from entering the system. If bleeding the brakes doesn't resolve the soft pedal, there may be a leak in the brake lines or the master cylinder itself could be failing.

Frequently Asked Questions:

How often should I replace my rear brakes? Brake life varies depending on driving habits, but generally, rear brakes last between 30,000 and 70,000 miles. Regular inspections are key.
Can I just replace the brake pads and not the rotors/drums? Yes, but it's recommended to resurface or replace the rotors/drums if they are worn or damaged.
What type of brake pads should I use? Choose brake pads that are appropriate for your vehicle and driving style. Ceramic pads are generally quieter and produce less dust, while semi-metallic pads offer better stopping power.
How do I know if my brake rotors/drums need to be replaced? Look for signs of wear, cracks, or warping. Measure the thickness of the rotors/drums and compare it to the manufacturer's specifications.
Is it safe to drive with worn brakes? No, driving with worn brakes is dangerous and can increase stopping distances.

Conclusion:

Replacing your rear brakes is a manageable DIY project with the right preparation and knowledge. By following these steps and prioritizing safety, you can save money and gain valuable experience maintaining your vehicle.