How To Diy Rear Brake Replacement?

Replacing your rear brakes is a routine maintenance task that can save you significant money compared to taking your vehicle to a mechanic. While it might seem daunting, with the right tools, a little patience, and this comprehensive guide, you can confidently tackle this project yourself. This guide will walk you through each step of the process, providing detailed instructions and helpful tips to ensure a successful brake replacement.

Replacing your rear brakes yourself not only saves money on labor costs but also gives you a better understanding of your vehicle's mechanics. It's a rewarding experience that empowers you to take control of your car's maintenance.

Detailed Explanations

Tools Required

Having the right tools is essential for a smooth and safe rear brake replacement. Here's a list of the tools you'll need:

• Jack and Jack Stands: To safely lift and support your vehicle. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• Wheel Chocks: To prevent the vehicle from rolling.
• Socket Set: Including sockets that fit your lug nuts and caliper bolts. Metric sizes are most common.
• Wrench Set: For various bolts and nuts you might encounter.
• Torque Wrench: Crucial for tightening bolts to the correct specifications.
• Brake Caliper Tool (C-Clamp or Caliper Piston Compression Tool): To retract the caliper piston. Some vehicles require a special tool that rotates the piston while compressing it. Research your vehicle's specific requirements.
• Brake Cleaner: To clean brake components.
• Wire Brush: To clean rust and debris from the hub.
• Gloves: To protect your hands.
• Safety Glasses: To protect your eyes.
• Penetrating Oil: To loosen stubborn bolts.
• Lug Wrench: For removing lug nuts.
• Screwdriver Set: Including flathead and Phillips head screwdrivers.
• Brake Fluid: Matching the specification for your vehicle (DOT 3, DOT 4, etc.).
• Bleeder Wrench: A special wrench that fits the brake bleeder screw.
• Clear Tubing and Container: For bleeding the brakes.
• Shop Rags or Paper Towels: For cleaning up spills.
• Rubber Mallet: Can be helpful for removing stuck rotors.

Parts Needed

Using the correct parts is crucial for the proper function and safety of your braking system. Here's a list of the parts you'll likely need:

• Rear Brake Pads: Choose quality brake pads that are compatible with your vehicle. Consider ceramic, semi-metallic, or organic options based on your driving style and budget.
• Rear Brake Rotors (if necessary): Inspect your rotors for wear and tear. If they are warped, scored, or below the minimum thickness specification (stamped on the rotor), they need to be replaced.
• Caliper Hardware Kit: This kit typically includes new shims, clips, and pins that hold the brake pads in place. Replacing these ensures proper pad movement and reduces noise.
• Brake Caliper Bolts: Some manufacturers recommend replacing these bolts, especially if they are torque-to-yield bolts.
• Brake Fluid: Use the correct type of brake fluid as specified in your vehicle's owner's manual (DOT 3, DOT 4, etc.).
• Brake Cleaner: Use to clean the brake components.
• Anti-Seize Lubricant: Apply sparingly to the back of the brake pads (where they contact the caliper) to prevent squealing.
• Threadlocker (Loctite): For caliper bolts if recommended by the manufacturer.

Safety Precautions

Safety is paramount when working on your vehicle's brakes. Follow these precautions to prevent injuries:

• Always work on a level surface.
• Use wheel chocks to secure the front wheels.
• Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands.
• Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from debris.
• Wear gloves to protect your hands from brake dust and chemicals.
• Work in a well-ventilated area. Brake dust can be harmful if inhaled.
• Dispose of used brake fluid properly. It's a hazardous waste.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental electrical shorts.
• Never reuse old brake pads or rotors.
• Do not smoke or have open flames near brake fluid. It's flammable.
• If you are unsure about any step, consult a qualified mechanic.

Preparation Steps

Proper preparation will make the brake replacement process smoother and more efficient:

• Gather all the necessary tools and parts. Make sure you have everything you need before you start.
• Park your vehicle on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
• Chock the front wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling.
• Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels before lifting the vehicle. This is easier to do while the wheels are on the ground.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Locate the brake fluid reservoir and check the fluid level. Note the level before you start, as you may need to remove some fluid as you compress the caliper pistons.
• Consult your vehicle's repair manual or online resources for specific instructions and torque specifications.
• Have a plan for disposing of the old brake pads, rotors, and fluid.

Step-by-Step Guide

Follow these steps to replace your rear brakes:

1. Lift the vehicle and secure it with jack stands: Place the jack under the designated lifting points on the rear of the vehicle. Lift the vehicle until the rear wheels are off the ground. Securely place jack stands under the frame rails near the lifting points. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
2. Remove the wheels: Completely remove the lug nuts and take off the wheels.
3. Inspect the brake components: Before removing anything, take a close look at the brake pads, rotors, and calipers. Note the condition of each component.
4. Remove the brake caliper: Locate the caliper bolts (usually two bolts on the back of the caliper). Use the appropriate socket or wrench to remove the bolts. If the bolts are stuck, use penetrating oil and let it soak for a few minutes. Support the caliper after removing the bolts. Do not let it hang by the brake hose, as this can damage the hose. You can use a bungee cord or wire to suspend the caliper from the suspension.
5. Remove the brake pads: The brake pads are usually held in place by clips or shims. Remove the clips or shims and slide the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
6. Compress the caliper piston: Before installing the new brake pads, you need to compress the caliper piston. Use a brake caliper tool (C-clamp or caliper piston compression tool) to slowly and evenly push the piston back into the caliper. Some vehicles require a special tool that rotates the piston while compressing it. Consult your vehicle's repair manual for specific instructions. If the brake fluid reservoir is full, you may need to remove some fluid to prevent it from overflowing.
7. Remove the caliper bracket (if necessary): Some brake jobs require removing the caliper bracket to replace the rotors. The bracket is typically held in place by two bolts. Use the appropriate socket or wrench to remove the bolts.
8. Remove the brake rotor: The brake rotor may be held in place by rust. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the rotor until it comes loose. If the rotor is heavily rusted, you may need to use penetrating oil and a hammer.
9. Clean the hub: Use a wire brush to clean any rust or debris from the hub where the rotor mounts.
10. Install the new rotor: Place the new rotor onto the hub. Make sure it sits flush against the hub surface. If necessary, use a lug nut to temporarily hold the rotor in place.
11. Install the caliper bracket (if removed): Reinstall the caliper bracket and tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's specified torque.
12. Install the new brake pads: Insert the new brake pads into the caliper bracket. Make sure they are properly seated and secured by the clips or shims.
13. Reinstall the brake caliper: Carefully slide the caliper over the brake pads and rotor. Reinstall the caliper bolts and tighten them to the manufacturer's specified torque.
14. Repeat the process on the other side of the vehicle.
15. Reinstall the wheels: Place the wheels back onto the hubs and tighten the lug nuts by hand.
16. Lower the vehicle: Carefully lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the jack stands.
17. Torque the lug nuts: Use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specified torque.
18. Check the brake fluid level: Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and add fluid if necessary.
19. Pump the brake pedal: Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads against the rotors.
20. Bleed the brakes (if necessary): If you opened the brake system (e.g., disconnected a brake hose), you will need to bleed the brakes to remove air from the system.

Bleeding the Brakes

Bleeding the brakes is necessary if you opened the brake system during the brake replacement. Air in the brake lines can compromise braking performance. Here's how to bleed the brakes:

1. Locate the bleeder screws on each brake caliper. These are small screws with a rubber cap on them.
2. Attach a clear tube to the bleeder screw. Place the other end of the tube into a container filled with a small amount of brake fluid. This prevents air from being drawn back into the system.
3. Have a helper pump the brake pedal several times and hold it down.
4. While your helper is holding the pedal down, open the bleeder screw. Let the brake fluid and air flow into the tube.
5. Close the bleeder screw before your helper releases the brake pedal.
6. Repeat steps 3-5 until no more air bubbles come out of the tube.
7. Repeat the process on all four brake calipers, starting with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder. The typical bleeding order is: rear right, rear left, front right, front left.
8. Check the brake fluid level frequently and add fluid as needed.
9. After bleeding all the brakes, test the brake pedal feel. It should be firm and consistent.

Bedding the Brakes

Bedding in your new brakes is crucial for optimal performance and longevity. This process transfers friction material from the brake pads to the rotors, creating a uniform contact surface. Here's a typical bedding-in procedure:

1. Perform several moderate stops from 30 mph to 10 mph. Repeat this 5-6 times, allowing the brakes to cool slightly between stops.
2. Perform several harder stops from 50 mph to 10 mph. Repeat this 5-6 times, again allowing the brakes to cool slightly between stops.
3. Avoid hard braking or prolonged stops for the first 200 miles after replacing your brakes.
4. The specific bedding procedure may vary depending on the brake pad manufacturer. Consult the instructions that came with your brake pads.

Troubleshooting

Here are some common issues you might encounter during brake replacement and how to resolve them:

• Stuck Caliper Bolts: Use penetrating oil and a breaker bar to loosen stubborn bolts. If the bolt head is stripped, use a bolt extractor.
• Stuck Rotor: Use penetrating oil and a rubber mallet to loosen the rotor. If the rotor is heavily rusted, you may need to use a hammer and chisel.
• Caliper Piston Won't Compress: Make sure the brake fluid reservoir is not overfull. If the piston still won't compress, the caliper may be damaged and need to be replaced.
• Brake Squealing: This can be caused by worn brake pads, improper installation, or low-quality brake pads. Make sure the brake pads are properly installed and use quality brake pads. Apply anti-seize lubricant to the back of the brake pads.
• Soft Brake Pedal: This is usually caused by air in the brake lines. Bleed the brakes to remove the air.

Maintenance Tips

Here are some tips to maintain your brakes and extend their lifespan:

• Regularly inspect your brakes for wear and tear. Check the brake pads, rotors, and brake fluid level.
• Replace your brake pads and rotors when they are worn.
• Flush your brake fluid every 2-3 years. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which can reduce braking performance and corrode brake components.
• Keep your brake components clean.
• Avoid hard braking whenever possible.
• Listen for unusual noises, such as squealing or grinding, and address them promptly.

Cost Savings

Replacing your rear brakes yourself can save you a significant amount of money compared to taking your vehicle to a professional mechanic. Labor costs for a rear brake replacement can range from $100 to $300 or more, depending on the shop and the complexity of the job. By doing it yourself, you only pay for the parts, which can range from $50 to $200, depending on the quality of the parts you choose. This means you could save anywhere from $50 to $250 or more by doing the job yourself.

Legal Considerations

While DIY brake repair is generally permissible, it's essential to ensure compliance with local regulations, if any. Some regions may have specific rules regarding the disposal of used brake fluid or other hazardous materials. Always dispose of waste materials responsibly and in accordance with local guidelines. In some instances, depending on the make and model, certain advanced braking systems (like electronic parking brakes) may require dealership-level diagnostic tools for proper recalibration after brake service. If unsure, consult your vehicle's repair manual or a professional mechanic.

Frequently Asked Questions

• How often should I replace my rear brakes? Rear brake pad replacement frequency varies, but generally, every 30,000 to 70,000 miles is a good guideline, depending on driving habits and brake pad material. Rotor replacement is less frequent, typically every other pad replacement.

• Can I replace just the brake pads and not the rotors? You can replace just the brake pads if the rotors are in good condition (not warped, scored, or below the minimum thickness specification). However, it's often recommended to replace the rotors at the same time as the brake pads to ensure optimal braking performance.

• What happens if I don't bleed the brakes after replacing them? If air enters the brake lines, not bleeding the brakes will result in a spongy or soft brake pedal and reduced braking power, compromising safety.

• What type of brake fluid should I use? Use the brake fluid type specified in your vehicle's owner's manual (DOT 3, DOT 4, etc.). Using the wrong type of brake fluid can damage your braking system.

• How do I know if my rotors need to be replaced? Rotors should be replaced if they are warped, scored, below the minimum thickness specification (stamped on the rotor), or if you experience brake pedal pulsation or vibration when braking.

Conclusion

Replacing your rear brakes is a manageable DIY project that can save you money and provide a better understanding of your vehicle. By following this comprehensive guide, taking necessary safety precautions, and using the correct tools and parts, you can confidently tackle this task and ensure your vehicle's braking system is in top condition. Remember to consult your vehicle's repair manual for specific instructions and torque specifications, and don't hesitate to seek professional help if you encounter any difficulties.